CHAPTER 14
New Zealand’s m.o. seems to be long winding roads that dead end in the most remote, but spectacular places. Continuing north up the West Coast we first passed the peculiar Pancake Rocks, and then after topping yet another twisting mountain pass, descended into the forgotten coastal valley of Karamea- a dead end if there ever was one. The area is renowned for its abundant limestone cave formations- which we of course had to confirm for ourselves- and for its status as the trailhead for one of New Zealand’s best Great Walks, the Heaphy Track. We weren’t interested in attempting the five day trek over the mountains to Golden Bay, but we did do a few day hikes, and beach bumming- until the infinitely annoying swarms of sandflies, “New Zealsnd’s friendliest creature”, drove us to the breaking point of insanity, and we were forced to abandon the area altogether. The best part though was our chance encounter with our fellow dishwasher friend Sidney from the South Pole, whose car we randomly spotted in the parking lot of the trailhead.
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