CHAPTER 19
Every old city has its list of unusual, odd and unexpected attractions, and Istanbul is no laggard in this contest. Conveniently, one of the best happens to be located a stone’s throw from the two giant mosques we had just been traipsing around in… The Basilica Cistern.
Apparently there are hundreds of underground cisterns buried beneath the buildings and streets of old Constantinople, but this one is the biggest, and because you can actually go down and tour it, the best. You may remember it from a certain James Bond flick, but unlike 007, we forwent the rowboat, and took the easier option of strolling down the elevated walkways to get our view of the endless rows of columns, and the skittish fish below.
After leaving the cool confines of the cistern for the hot sunny day above, we decided it was time to get our shopping on and spend some of these funny colored lira bills burning holes in our pockets. It was time to visit the Grand Bazaar.
Now, having recently done some damage in another famous bazaar- the exotic, bustling, fragrant (and cheap) souk of Marrakesh, I thought I knew what to expect in a decent bazaar. Boy was I wrong- where Marrakesh’s bazaar was dark and mysterious with winding alleys and grizzled old men hiding in shadows, where you might have just as much chance finding a good bargain as being mugged; Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar was more like an American mall, all lit up and clean, with no old grizzled men, and no deals to be found. Admittedly, there were some neat shops, and we didn’t get mugged, so I guess that was a plus, but for a place that has been in operation for over 500 years, I would have thought it might have a slightly more exotic feel to it. We ended up buying a whole suitcase of Turkish bath towels… I think you can get them at Pottery Barn as well.
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